Active Ingredients in Skincare_ What They Are and Why They Matter

Whenever you are trying to manufacture your own products, the first thing you would likely focus on is the ingredients and the overall formulation. When doing so, you may often come across the term “active ingredients.”

Have you ever wondered what that really means? After all, aren’t all ingredients considered active in some way?

In this article, I will explain what active ingredients are, how they differ from inactive ingredients, and why this distinction matters. I will also share some popular and effective active ingredients commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products.

Let’s get started.

Define what active ingredients are

Before diving into details, let me first explain what “active ingredients” mean. By understanding this concept, you will be able to see the differences between active and inactive ingredients and why this distinction is important in cosmetics.

Active ingredients are…?

Active ingredients in skincare are the key components that directly work on a specific skin concern—whether that’s acne, dryness, hyperpigmentation, or signs of aging. They are the “power players” in a formula, doing the heavy lifting to deliver visible results.

For instance, if you struggle with breakouts, choosing a product that contains an active ingredient such as salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide can directly target acne-causing factors and help clear your skin.

In short, active ingredients are what make a skincare product more than just a cream or lotion—they’re the reason the product can create real, noticeable changes in your skin. Choosing the right and in-demand active ingredients can even be the key factor in creating a buzzworthy cosmetic product.

The difference between active ingredients vs inactive ingredients

Just as every skincare product contains active ingredients, it also includes inactive ingredients. Unlike actives, inactive ingredients do not target a specific skin concern directly.

But that doesn’t mean they are unimportant. In fact, most skincare products wouldn’t function properly without them.

Inactive ingredients are the elements that make a product usable, stable, and pleasant to apply. 

They can:

• Improve texture and feel on the skin
• Provide hydration and support skin health
• Preserve the formula and extend shelf life
• Stabilize or deliver the active ingredients effectively

In short, while an inactive ingredient may not directly “solve” your concern the way benzoyl peroxide treats acne, it creates the base and environment that allow the active ingredients to work—and ensures the product is safe, stable, and enjoyable to use.

Important Tips

When importing cosmetics from overseas—or manufacturing in Japan and exporting abroad—it’s essential to understand that regulations and allowable ingredient concentrations differ from country to country.

For example, certain ingredients may be permitted up to a specific percentage in one region, but the same limit may not apply elsewhere. 

In addition, product classifications can vary across markets. 

A clear case is sunscreens:

・Japanese sunscreens

Many Japanese sunscreens are formulated with high concentrations of skincare ingredients such as hyaluronic acid or ceramides, while being regulated to a maximum of SPF 50. This makes them gentle and safe, even for delicate skin types, including babies.

・Overseas sunscreens

In contrast, sunscreens produced overseas (particularly in Western countries) often go beyond SPF 70, 80, or even 100. These higher SPF levels are designed to meet the needs of stronger UV exposure in those regions. However, the stronger protection often comes with a trade-off—such formulas can feel heavier on the skin and may cause irritation for people with sensitive skin.

In short, understanding regional differences in cosmetic regulations and SPF standards is crucial for making informed decisions when developing or importing products. Each country has its own cosmetic laws and regulatory approach. There is no universal rule that says “this country’s products are always safe” or “if it’s made in 〇〇, it must be fine.” What truly matters is recognizing these differences and choosing products that align with both your market’s regulations and your customers’ needs.

Key Types of Active Ingredients

In the next phase, let’s look at some actual examples of active ingredients.

Of course, there are many more, but I’ll focus on a few well-known ones.

While incorporating unique or lesser-known ingredients can help differentiate a product, using familiar, widely recognized active ingredients is also valuable. Well-known ingredients are often easier for consumers to understand and trust, which can make them more comfortable purchasing the product.

Hydrating

1, Hyaluronic Acid：

Deep hydration: Hyaluronic acid is famous for its water-retaining ability. Just a tiny amount can hold a huge volume of water, making it a powerhouse for keeping skin plump and moisturized.

Skin flexibility and anti-aging: It supports the skin’s elasticity, helping it stretch and flex. This reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, keeping skin looking smoother and more youthful.

Healing support: Studies show it can accelerate wound healing and even help minimize scarring.

Natural lubrication: In joints, hyaluronic acid acts like a cushion, helping them move smoothly and protecting against wear and tear.

Because of these properties, hyaluronic acid is a star ingredient in serums, creams, and lotions—making it one of the most trusted and effective active ingredients in modern skincare.

2, Glycerin：

High moisturizing effect: Glycerin has strong humectant properties, meaning it attracts water from the air into the skin and increases the moisture content of the stratum corneum. This helps relieve tightness and flakiness caused by dryness.

Emollient effect to soften the skin: In addition to providing hydration, glycerin supports the skin’s barrier function by strengthening the intercellular lipids that connect skin cells. As a result, the skin stays soft, smooth, and supple.

Improvement of the skin barrier function: By preventing dryness and supporting the skin’s natural moisturizing factors, glycerin enhances the skin’s innate protective barrier.

Anti-aging

Retinol：

Improvement of wrinkles, firmness, and elasticity: Promotes collagen production in the dermis and supports the synthesis of hyaluronic acid, enhancing skin firmness and elasticity while reducing the appearance of wrinkles.

Reduction of dark spots and dullness: Stimulates skin turnover (cell renewal) and helps eliminate accumulated melanin, leading to a brighter, more even complexion.

Pore care: Regulates skin turnover and controls excess sebum production, minimizing the appearance of enlarged pores and darkened areas.

Prevention of skin roughness and acne: Controls sebum secretion and suppresses the growth of acne-causing bacteria, helping to prevent skin irritation and breakouts.

Smoother skin texture: Promotes stratum corneum metabolism and refines skin texture, resulting in smoother, softer skin.

Peptides：

Strengthening of skin barrier function: Peptides promote the synthesis of lipids such as ceramides, reinforcing the skin’s barrier. A stronger barrier helps retain moisture and protects the skin from external irritants and environmental stressors.

High moisturizing effect: Peptides serve as building blocks for natural moisturizing factors (NMFs) in the skin, increasing its water retention capacity. This helps prevent dryness, maintain hydration, and supports sensitive or troubled skin.

Anti-inflammatory properties: Certain peptides help calm inflammation, reducing acne and skin irritation. They also inhibit substances that increase due to inflammation, supporting the skin’s recovery from damage.

Brightening / Whitening

Vitamin C：

Brightening & Improvement of Hyperpigmentation: Inhibits melanin production and helps lighten existing dark spots and post-acne marks for a more even skin tone.

Collagen Production Promotion: Supports the synthesis of collagen fibers that maintain skin firmness and elasticity, helping reduce wrinkles and create smooth, resilient skin.

Pore & Acne Care: Regulates excessive sebum production, contributing to the improvement of acne, clogged pores, and darkened pores.

Normalization of Skin Turnover: Promotes proper skin turnover, reducing dullness and revealing a brighter, smoother complexion with refined texture.

Niacinamide：

Wrinkle Reduction & Improved Firmness and Hydration: Promotes collagen production in the dermis, enhancing skin firmness and elasticity. Supports ceramide synthesis to strengthen the skin barrier, helping prevent dryness, sagging, and wrinkles.

Brightening & Spot Prevention: Inhibits the transfer of melanin to skin cells, reducing the formation of dark spots and promoting a more even skin tone.

Skin Barrier Enhancement & Irritation Prevention: Normalizes skin turnover and supports the production of intercellular lipids (such as ceramides) in the stratum corneum, reinforcing the skin barrier and preventing irritation.

Sebum Regulation & Pore Care: Helps control excess sebum production, improving the appearance of acne and minimizing visible pores.

Antioxidant Protection: Reduces oxidative stress caused by free radicals, protecting skin from premature aging and environmental damage.

Soothing / Anti-inflammatory

Centella asiatica：

Soothing & Skin Repair: Exhibits anti-inflammatory and calming effects to reduce redness and irritation caused by acne or skin sensitivity. Promotes the repair and regeneration of damaged skin cells, enhancing the skin’s natural recovery.

Moisturizing Effect: Provides hydration to the skin, protecting it from dryness and improving moisture retention.

Prevention of Spots & Freckles: Antioxidant properties help reduce inflammation, preventing post-inflammatory pigmentation and minimizing the formation of dark spots and freckles.

Collagen Production & Firmness Improvement: Stimulates collagen synthesis, enhancing skin elasticity and firmness while helping prevent wrinkles and sagging.

Allantoin：

Tissue Repair & Wound Healing: Promotes the repair and regeneration of damaged skin and mucous membranes, helping to reduce the likelihood of lasting marks such as acne scars.

Anti-inflammatory Effects: Helps calm inflammation, reducing redness and skin irritation.

Soothing & Irritation-Relief: Protects the skin from external irritants and allergic reactions, minimizing sensitivity, making it suitable for use in products designed for sensitive skin.

Key points to decide which active ingredients to use for your products

In the last section, I will share some tips and key points for choosing the right ingredients for your products. There are many approaches, but the following points are essential to keep in mind when selecting ingredients.

Define the Product Goal

Before selecting ingredients or designing your formulation, it’s crucial to define your product’s purpose as clearly as possible. Ask yourself: What skin concerns should this product address—acne, dryness, pigmentation, or signs of aging? Who is the target audience—teens, adults, or sensitive-skinned individuals? What kind of results or experience should users feel after using the product?

By answering these questions first, you set a clear direction for your formulation. This ensures that both active and inactive ingredients are chosen with purpose, creating a product that meets both your vision and the expectations of your consumers. For example, if your goal is a lightweight daily moisturizer for sensitive skin, you might prioritize gentle humectants and barrier-supporting actives over potent exfoliants that could irritate the skin.

Match Goals with Proven Actives, Marketing & Consumer Appeal

Once you have a clear product goal, select active ingredients that are scientifically proven to deliver the desired effects. For instance, if targeting fine lines and wrinkles, ingredients like peptides or retinol are well-documented to improve collagen production.

At the same time, consider ingredients that are recognizable or trusted by consumers. Familiar ingredients like hyaluronic acid, vitamin C, or niacinamide can make marketing and consumer adoption easier because users immediately understand their benefits. 

Striking a balance between efficacy and consumer recognition is crucial: a product may be highly effective, but if the benefits aren’t immediately understandable, it may struggle in the market.

Additionally, consider how your chosen ingredients work together. Synergistic combinations can enhance results—for example, pairing vitamin C with ferulic acid or hyaluronic acid with peptides can boost both performance and user satisfaction.

Regulatory Considerations

Every country has its own cosmetic regulations, including restrictions on ingredient concentrations, prohibited substances, and product classifications. Before finalizing your formulation, make sure you are aware of these rules in your target market.

Labeling requirements—such as ingredient listing, SPF claims, or allergy warnings—must also be followed precisely. Failing to comply can result in fines, product recalls, or import restrictions.

Being proactive about regulatory compliance not only protects your brand legally, but it also ensures consumer safety and builds trust. Collaborating with experienced formulators or regulatory specialists can help navigate these complex requirements efficiently.

Conclusion

When developing skincare products, understanding the role of active and inactive ingredients is essential. Active ingredients are the “power players” that directly address skin concerns, while inactive ingredients support their delivery, improve texture, and maintain product stability.

Equally important is awareness of regional regulations, ingredient limits, and product classifications to ensure compliance and consumer safety. Choosing ingredients should start with a clear product goal, matched with scientifically proven actives that also appeal to consumers.

By combining efficacy, consumer understanding, and regulatory compliance, you can create products that are not only effective but also trusted and desirable in the market. Careful formulation and thoughtful ingredient selection are the keys to producing skincare that delivers visible results and builds lasting consumer confidence.